I’ve recently found myself obsessed with revamping my outdoor space. My back deck, my garden, my yard, even my front entry are all in desperate need of a makeover. The interior of a home is without a doubt much more my forte, but as I find myself wanting to spend more time outdoors, I realize that the outdoor space is equally important, and something I have overlooked. While this issue is obviously demanding of a much greater post ….I have high hopes of being able to show off my outdoor makeover at some point. If only I can finish it!…… For now, I’ll slowly bring you along with me one project at a time, on my path to creating my perfect outdoor space. First on the list… a DIY Patina Gothic Skull Lantern.
This past month I ventured out to a few of Atlanta’s popular Antique shows with the determination of finding “stuff” for outside. I really didn’t have anything specific in mind… which is actually a blessing at Antique shows because you never really know what you might find. That is certainly always the case with my favorite dealer, Maddy’s Antiques…. Lucky for me, they had a few decorative standing hooks that were perfect for outside. Whether I hung lanterns or hanging baskets of plants, both candlelight and greenery were going to play important roles in making my outdoor space cozy. I snatched up a several of the hooks, and began my hunt for things to hang from them.
I found this lantern while out thrift shopping. It was far from the kind of lantern I was looking to add to my new space, but it was a great size, and these days, I find almost anything can be transformed into something much better! I really wanted my outdoor space to have a secret garden type of feel, so I knew this lantern would need to look old. My goal was to make it look like it had been sitting in the elements for ages. The key was to get the patina finish right. I’m really happy with how it turned out!
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Here’s what I used to create and refinish my metal lantern:
- Metal Lantern (See below for some options you can buy online)
- Iron Orchid Mold: Moulding I
- Prima Marketing Mold: Renaissance I
- Foliage Mold
- Corn Starch
- Small Paint Brush
- Paper Clay
- Set of Painting Knives
- Aleene’s Tacky Glue
- Heat Tool (optional)
- Wire Hanger(s)
- Wire Cutter
- Skull Silicone Mold
- Apoxie Sculpt
- E6000
- Metal Effects Primer
- Metal Effects Bronze Paint
- Metal Effects Blue Patina Solution
- Spritzer Cap
- 2 paint brushes
- Sponge brush or applicator
I started by sanding and cleaning my lantern.
Then I chose which silicone molds I wanted to use to make all of my clay details. I chose a wide ornate molding for the base of the lantern, but I chose the top pieces based on my desire to cover up those ugly star shaped holes. Because I wanted to create an outdoor lantern, I choose foliage shaped molds to add to the outdoor element. I listed the specific molds I used above, but depending on the size and shape of your lantern, you may want to use different ones. There are so many out there to choose from.
Here’s how to create the clay castings:
First brush a bit of cornstarch into the mold cavity.
Firmly press paper clay into the mold and use the painting knifes to level the clay and clean up any clay that may be protruding out of the mold.
Remove the clay from the mold, by bending the mold all around to break the seal around the edge, and slowly roll the mold away from the clay until the clay is free.
Add tacky glue to the back side of the clay casting and gently press to secure it onto the lantern.
For more detailed photos on using paper clay and silicone molds, check out these Skull Candle Sconces or this Baroque Vase. Both tutorials will walk you through every step of the process.
Gravity is not your friend when working with paper clay, so lay the lantern with one flat side up, and only work on one side at a time. I allow the clay to dry completely before moving onto the next side. I typically give it 12 hours. You can use the heat tool if you need to speed this process up.
I decided to take things one step further and add some details to the window openings around the lantern. I chose to work with only 2 of the 4 openings because I still needed to be able to get my hand in to add or light a candle. If your lantern has a top that opens, you can use this technique on all 4 sides.
It’s not that I cover everything with skulls … although there are probably some out there that may argue… but sometimes I like to add a little unexpected touch, and I felt this lantern was a good candidate. This step is obviously completely optional.
To create the cross bars for the skull to attach to, I used a wire hanger. I measured the inside of the lantern and then cut the hanger with wire cutters. I only needed one hanger, but you may need more depending on the size of your lantern.
I added a dollop of E6000 glue to each of the 4 inside corners, and nestled the ends of the wires into the glue. Technically E6000 glue needs to dry overnight before completely setting, but I allowed the 1st side to dry for about an hour before flipping it over to work on the other side. The wires were secure enough at that point to hold.
While the wires set, I began work on my skull. Follow package directions to mix enough Apoxie Sculpt to fill about 2/3 of the skull face half of the mold. I didn’t fill the entire mold because I wanted a lower profile skull face.
I let the apoxie sculpt set in the mold for at least an hour and a half. The longer you let it set, the more distinct the details of the mold will be. To test if it’s ready to come out, I loosen the edges of the mold around the apoxie. If the skull comes out without distorting, it’s ready. If not, give it a bit longer. You have roughly 3 hours for it to still be pliable enough for the next step.
Once the skull is ready, add a thin line of E6000 to the wire where the skull will sit. Note – work with the wires that were glued first. Gently press the back of the skull onto the wire. The apoxie does not need to form around the wire, but a slight indent is the goal. Just be cautious to not ruin any of the details of the face when you push against the wire.
Make the second skull, and repeat on the other cross wire.
Time for the finishing!
Before working with the Metal Effects oxidizing products, it’s always a good idea to use Metal Effects Primer on your project. This prevents the patina aging solution from penetrating the metal of the lantern.
I brushed it on with a paintbrush, and gave it two coats.
Once dry… now it’s time for the real fun.
With a paintbrush, I painted one coat of the Metal Effects Bronze Paint.
I added the spritzer cap to the Blue Patina Aging solution.
I painted a second coat of Bronze Paint, and while still wet, sprayed the Blue Patina solution onto it. I worked on small areas at a time to ensure the paint was wet before I sprayed it.
Then it was time to grab a glass of wine, and watch the magic happen! Heads up – the change does not happen immediately as you spray, but soon after you will start to notice a blue color coming through the bronze, and right before your eyes, the bronze will begin to patina. Obviously I am a huge DIY nerd because I get very excited about stuff like this!!
I sprayed my entire lantern and let it oxidize overnight.
The next morning, when I was able to assess the final result, I felt I had gone a little patina crazy, and decided to use a sponge to dab some bronze back onto the lantern. The added bronze gives even more depth to the colors of the finish. There’s no right or wrong here when applying the patina or bronze. Because I used the spray method for applying the patina, it’s a bit harder to control the intensity and coverage. But I prefer the spray because I think the unevenness of the aging is more realistic.
All that was left to do was add my black candle, hang my new lantern from my hook, and enjoy the ambiance!
Interested in more Clay Casting Projects or Faux Finishing techniques? Check out this DIY Aged Stone Mirror or these Baroque Skull Candle Sconces.
If you too are looking to spruce up your outdoor space, these DIY Halloween Inspired Decoupage Flower Pots are sure to add a touch of dark whimsy to your garden!
Oh Alex. Be still my beating heart!! This is utterly stunning my friend. We must discuss apoxie sculpt and the patina process. I absolutely need to try both. Sx
Thanks so much Sue!! You will love these new techniques! So many possibilities!
OH I LOVE IT!! Thank you for the great tutorial. Ordering those molds today.
So glad Kim! Good luck with the project!!
Hello! I am a bit of a DIY newbie and was wondering if there was a reason why you use the paper clay for the base but the apoxie sculpt for the skull. Couldn’t one use the paper clay for everything?
Hi London! What a great question! Honestly, I probably should’ve touched on that in my article.. and will make a point to go back in and add a blurb! I ended up displaying my lantern in a covered area of my back lanai, so it hasn’t had to feel much of the effects of weather elements, and therefore looks as good as it did on day one. So, while I don’t have personal experience in leaving paper clay outdoors, I can say that Air-dry clays are water-based, and need to “dry” in order to harden. If they get wet, they may soften and/or lose shape. To be water proof/resistant, the most common sealants are permanent paints like acrylic paints, permanent clear finishes like polyurethanes, or sealers/finishes “sold specifically for” clays, etc. I hope that helps!
I adore everything you’re doing, so beautifully dark I love it!! Quick question though, does the paper clay hold up very well outdoors? Did you add any kind of water proofing to the finished product?